Varrier Takes On Skin Aging

Clariant and BioSpectrum have made a strategic investment to develop and supply natural active ingredients for the cosmetics industry. Under this collaboration, Varrier was developed to reduce the effects of UVB radiation. Varrier, which combines four natural berry extracts, is an innovative product with the potential to prevent skin cell death caused by UVB radiation. According to the World Health Organization (WHO), small amounts of ultraviolet radiation are beneficial for humans and necessary for the body's vitamin D production. UV radiation is also used in the treatment of various diseases such as psoriasis, eczema, jaundice and rickets. However, because excessive exposure to UV radiation can pose serious risks, WHO emphasizes that such treatments must be conducted under medical supervision. WHO states that "prolonged exposure to UV sunlight can cause acute and chronic effects on the skin, eyes and immune system." While sunburn is known as the most acute effect of UV radiation exposure, it is also known that in the long term UV radiation "creates degenerative changes in skin cells, fibrous tissue and blood vessels, leading to premature aging, photodermatosis and actinic keratosis."

Strong Growth in the Sunscreen Sector These concerns are driving significant growth in the global sunscreen ingredient market.

According to research firm Euromonitor International's forecasts, the sunscreen ingredient market is expected to grow by one-third by 2020, reaching 40,000 tonnes. Today, consumers using these products aim to protect themselves from all types of negative environmental effects, including UV radiation, pollution, infrared and blue light. This situation requires products to be formulated with a higher sun protection factor (SPF). This usually means using more UV filters, antioxidants acting as free radical scavengers, plant extracts and film-forming polymers to protect the skin. Consumers also want lighter textures in terms of sensory demands, providing longer-lasting protection during sports or water activities, and non-sticky formulations. As a result, manufacturers of such products for the sun protection segment are working intensively to develop new synthetic polymers and lighter emollients. Clariant International AG, a specialty chemicals supplier headquartered in Muttenz, Switzerland, together with its South Korean partner BioSpectrum Inc, is at the forefront of these efforts. In May 2016, Clariant, together with BioSpectrum, made a strategic investment to develop and supply natural active ingredients for the cosmetics industry. The chemists, scientists and researchers of both companies are aware of the benefits of moderate amounts of ultraviolet radiation. They are also fully aware of the potential negative effects of excessive UV exposure. Ultraviolet radiation from the sun is one of the skin's greatest enemies. Excessive exposure to this radiation can cause skin cells to die, facilitating the release of certain cytokines, which can trigger skin irritation. Another less well-known consequence of such exposure is that it can cause dysregulation of the skin's daily routine cycle.

Disruption of Our "Body Clock"

Humans have an approximately 24-hour biological clock that tells us when to sleep and when to wake. Genes play an important role in regulating the daily body rhythm: • Morning genes - expression levels of Per and Cry increase during daytime activities. Per forms a heterodimer with Cry and acts to suppress the Clock/Bmal complex. • Night genes - the Clock/Bmal complex activates the Per/Cry complex during light phases, and then the Per/Cry complex moves into the nucleus during dark phases and suppresses the Clock/Bmal complex. The daily routine cycle, or our internal clock, tells our skin whether it is day or night, which helps the skin understand what it should do at a certain time (for example, synthesize molecules). When disrupted by UV radiation, the order of the daily routine cycle is disturbed and genes are no longer well expressed, which makes the skin much more sensitive and prone to rapid aging.

Berry Extracts Play an Important Role

BioSpectrum sources a large portion of its specialty ingredients from natural products and extracts, particularly from exotic Asian plants found on Jeju Island in South Korea, where more than 1,800 plant species emerged as a result of volcanic eruptions after 1800. The family-owned company BioSpectrum developed active ingredients used in Varrier, combining four natural berry extracts, to help address the UV-related problems mentioned above: • Strawberry: Fragaria chiloensis fruit extract, • Barberry: Berberis vulgaris root extract, • Black mulberry: Morus nigra fruit extract, • Goji: Lycium chinense fruit extract. All these substances play an important role in controlling the daily cycle and the destructive effects associated with ultraviolet B radiation. Clinical studies show that the product has remarkable wrinkle-reducing effects in just two weeks and even better effects after four weeks. Sanem Yurt, Technical Application Manager for Personal Care in the Turkey, Middle East and Africa Industrial and Consumer Specialty Products (ICS) Business Unit, stated: "Tests show that Varrier has the potential to prevent skin cell death caused by UVB radiation. To confirm Varrier's irritation prevention properties, we measured IL-6 cytokine synthesis and to evaluate how well the product prevents skin damage, we also measured its antioxidant properties. Both proved to be highly effective."

Positive Clinical Test Results

A clinical study conducted in South Korea involved 31 female volunteers, aged 51 (+/-4.6 years). These subjects applied a care product containing 2% Varrier to their faces daily for four weeks. Researchers then used a 3D skin imaging system to visually evaluate crow's feet wrinkles on the subjects' faces. All wrinkle parameters decreased by approximately 6% after just two weeks of use and approximately 10% after four weeks. How do the various berry extracts used in Varrier contribute to this solution? • Strawberry is a source of vitamin C, contains dietary fiber and has an acidic structure that helps remove excess sebum from the skin; • Barberry is commonly used in homeopathy, offers antifungal, anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties and helps boost the body's immune system; • Black mulberry has many powerful properties including skin whitening, antioxidant effects, anti-aging, wrinkle prevention and immune system enhancement. It is rich in nutritional value including anthocyanins, K+, Ca2+ and vitamin C and contains 22 times more anthocyanins than grapes and 10 times more than black beans; • Goji contains 22 minerals and 11 amino acids, is rich in antioxidants, vitamins B1, B2, B6 and E, is a plant-based source of natural protein and iron, has high beta carotene value and stimulates the secretion of anti-aging growth hormone. It is also used in the treatment of skin inflammation and helps prevent fatigue and exhaustion. BioSpectrum and Clariant Active Ingredients work together to combine these powerful natural components with Varrier, a daily cycle protector, and offer a beneficial cocktail that can help address problems related to excessive UVB effects.