The Secret of Beautiful Eyes - Skin Care with SYN®-EYE

Summary

The eye's gaze determines a person's facial expression. Many skin characteristics play a role in skin appearance. Skin thinness, a weak hydrolipid layer, skin moisture retention and stress created by eye muscles are the main factors. The eye area region consists of the lower and upper eyelids. Between the two lies the palpebral fissure. The skin tissue in the eyelids and eye area differs from facial and body skin tissue. This tissue is thinner and more sensitive, with a property that dries very quickly. The muscles surrounding the eye regularly open and close the eyelid. This opening and closing movement protects the eye and keeps it moist. Additionally, the eye muscles are responsible for the expression and mimicry of the eye area. The eye muscles are surrounded by connective tissue with a different structure. While connective tissue contains collagen and elastic fibers, it also forms a sensitive connective tissue layer. In this area of the face, there are very few fat and sweat glands, and this results in a weak hydrolipid layer. Dark circles and puffiness under the eyes result from deficient drainage function. Swelling is eliminated through lymphatic fluid and blood circulation in the tissue. The eye area is an extremely sensitive region. Signs of fatigue, stress, aging and improper skin care quickly manifest in this area as wrinkles, fine lines, dark circles and bags.

Over time, this region begins to show signs of fatigue, exhaustion and aging effects. Therefore, the eye area requires special skin care to address these symptoms.

Eye care creams are the second best-selling product after daily face care creams. Over the past 10 years, the eye care cream market has grown 300% and continues to grow (1). Today, consumers demand fast and sustained effects, eye care products that provide solutions and are reliable. Taking into account the market size and consumer demands, cosmetic product manufacturers have begun using high amounts of specialized raw materials. With the development of new raw materials and raw material combinations, the industry continuously offers more effective eye care creams to the market. There are well-established and well-known raw materials in the eye care market. Vitamin B5, Panthenol, Caffeine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Hyaluronic Acid are just some of these. These components, which possess moisturizing and anti-aging properties, constitute the main active ingredients in almost all eye care creams. According to many market surveys, consumers demand products that make their eyes appear more energized, less tired and deliver quick results. Consumer expectations from eye care creams include reducing wrinkles, fine lines, dark circles and eye area puffiness while also demonstrating anti-aging effects.

It is impossible for a single raw material alone to meet so many expectations. To achieve the best effect in the eye area, many eye care products contain several different active ingredients.

DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd. has developed a four-in-one product—a mixture targeting care of two main areas around the eye. This mixture was developed taking into account criteria such as cost, production and formulation ease, product benefits and performance. The mixture contains Palm-Lys-Val-Lys-OH, a synthetic small-structure tripeptide, an extract from a specific microalgae (Dunaliella salina), Panthenol and low molecular weight Hyaluronic acid. The efficacy of each component of the product has been proven in vitro on eye area skin, and the mixture demonstrated even better in vivo effects on skin. Due to its innovative composition and proven efficacy, the product has been patented by DSM. This innovative product is suitable for use in cosmetic products and can be marketed worldwide, including in China. In the following paragraphs, we would like to address the scientific aspects of the raw materials in the product's composition. Palm-Lys-Val-Lys-OH mimics the body's collagen production mechanism via TGF-β (Transforming Growth Factor-beta) through its unique amino acid sequence. Collagen is the main component of the extracellular matrix found in the skin's connective tissue (2). In vitro, Palm-Lys-Val-Lys-OH triggers Type 1 collagen production in fibroblasts in a dose-dependent manner (Figure 1A) (3). Thus, it works counter to the rapid collagen degradation caused by MMP-1 (Matrix Metalloproteinase-1), TNF-α (Tumor Necrosis Factor-alpha), MMP-3 (Matrix Metalloproteinase-3) and IL-8 (Interleukin-8) (Figure 1B). Collagen accumulated in cells as a result of stimulation by TGF-β (4) was used as a positive control (2).

According to a scientific study conducted on 15 volunteers, when a cream containing Palm-Lys-Val-Lys-OH was used twice daily for 84 days, significant reduction in deep wrinkles and overall improvement in skin appearance were observed (5).

Dunaliella Salina is a small, single-celled microalgae species first discovered in salt lakes in the 1930s. It grows in waters with 30% salinity, nine times saltier than seawater. Capable of surviving such harsh living conditions, Dunaliella Salina has specialized in survival. Dunaliella Salina extract is a raw material used by the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. It is known to be a rich source of β-carotene. According to a scientific study, Dunaliella Salina captures reactive oxygen species and prevents lipid peroxidation (6,7).

Figure 1: A) Dose-dependent Palm-Lys-Val-Lys-OH collagen stimulation.

Figure 1: B) Status of cytokines and MMPs after human keratinocytes were chemically stimulated and stressed (24 hours). Palm-Lys-Val-Lys-OH protects cells against collagen network structure breakdown.

Figure 2: A) Dunaliella Salina extract protects mitochondria in a dose-dependent manner against oxidative stress caused by free radicals.

Figure 2: B) Dunaliella Salina extract significantly increases ATP amount in a dose-dependent manner, up to 140%.

In vitro data confirm that Dunaliella Salina works against oxidative stress (Figure 2A). Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP) is a cofactor enzyme used in intracellular energy transfer. Dunaliella Salina extract supported ATP production in keratinocytes in a dose-dependent manner. Dunaliella Salina extract protects the mitochondrial membrane and energizes cells. Dunaliella Salina increases collagen synthesis and triggers cell renewal (8). Additionally, this microalgae elasticizes skin in both the short and long term (9). Pro Vitamin B5 or D-Panthenol has been used in skin care for many years. When applied to skin, D-Panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Pantothenic acid, also known as Vitamin B5, belongs to the B group and water-soluble vitamin groups. It is known to moisturize skin and improve skin elasticity (10). It supports skin cell renewal (11) and has anti-inflammatory, anti-itch and wound-healing properties (12). This acid is an important part of the intracellular energy cycle. Panthenol retains water in the upper layers of skin and increases skin renewal (13). Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide naturally found in the human body that plays an important role in connective tissue and cell proliferation. Hyaluronic acid has variable molecular weight. Low molecular weight Hyaluronic acid (350 to 550 KD) penetrates skin more rapidly compared to those with higher molecular weight (14). In vivo studies show that Hyaluronic acid imparts moisture and elasticity to skin (15). Because low molecular weight Hyaluronic acid has stronger penetration, topical application has been observed to improve skin functions, act as an anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agent (16,17).

In Vivo Study

The efficacy of the SYN ®-EYE mixture was measured at the 1% level in a 4-week study at Dermascan Laboratories in Lyon, France. SYN ®-EYE and a competing comparison product were tested against placebo in an eye cream on parallel groups. This study was conducted as a randomized, half-face application by 36 female volunteers of European descent (ages 35-55), applied twice daily. Wrinkle reduction and skin smoothing effects in the crow's feet area were measured by Derma-Top®. Additionally, wrinkles were photographed under standard lighting. Dark circle analysis was conducted by Newtone Technologies in Lyon. Measurements were taken at baseline, day 7, day 14 and day 28.

Figure 3: A) Significantly reduced appearance of wrinkles compared to placebo.

Figure 4: A) SYN®-EYE demonstrates significant anti-wrinkle effects following 7 days of use. Even better results were achieved by day 28 with SYN®-EYE.

Figure 5: SYN®-EYE provides visibly lighter skin tone in the dark circle area following only 14 days of use.

The four-in-one concept composition, SYN ®-EYE began reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and dark circles following 7 days of use (Figures 3-5). The product containing SYN ®-EYE delivered 90% better results on wrinkles by day 7 compared to the competing comparison product and placebo (Figure 4A). Additionally, its skin smoothing and structure-improving effects are statistically superior at just 7 days of use. All measured evaluation parameters showed much greater improvement by day 14 and day 28 (Figure 4B). After 14 days of use, a visible lightening in the color of dark circles was observed (Figure 5). In summary, the new and patented four-in-one product, SYN ®-EYE is a multifunctional eye care active that combines 4 bioactive raw materials. This product, which works specifically to improve the appearance of aging in the eye area, particularly lines, wrinkles and dark circles, offers a science-based approach. Noteworthy results were achieved with 7 days of use. It delivers significantly better results when compared to competing comparison products.     Burçak Alioğlu Technical Sales Manager Arkem Kimya San. ve Tic. A.Ş.    

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